THESE ARE MY PERSONAL NOTES. DO NOT FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS

0 A helicopter won't fly in bad weather and you generally can't walk up

Crevasse
1 Hold the fall
2 Call. It's OK to be pulling the person out when they arrive. It's not OK for the person to be hypothermic when they arrive
3 Create an anchor. This is going to be a buried ice axe or possibly dig dig dig an ice screw
4 Don't move above the anchor. I think this is because you might get pulled into the anchor and stuck?
5 The anchor is going to have a sling
6 Then you are going to hold the rope to the anchor using a wrapped Prusik. If it doesn't hold add another wrap
7 At this point you can remove all your rope + re attach yourself via a clove hitch
8 Move down and see if the person is OK
9 Prepare the edge. Ice axe? Back pack? Jacket? Something.
10 Now you can attach the second Prusik and start hauling / resetting the Prusiks, pulling on the obvious rope when moving up. [A second person could help by pulling on the obvious rope]. Take in the slack on your clove hitch
11 Take care when the person is coming over the edge; accidents have been caused by crushing
12 Perhaps you could use a micro traction device or increase the pulley effect further.

Climbing a rope
1 You are going to tie the waist Prusik using a classic (symmetrical) Prusik. Try not to get the knot lined up with the carabiner
2 You are going to tie the foot Prusik using a wrapped Prusik. Use a sling for the foot loop potentially lark's footed around your shoe. That one can be shortened with a knot to make it more effective
3 You will want to pull slack through the clove hitch as you get higher

Retrievable (stacked) abseil
1 When you get there you are going to take a 120cm sling with three over-hand knots; one to shorten it; one to create a place to attach the abseil device
2 This is going to be lark's footed to your belay loop and clipped to the anchor using a screwgate carabiner
3 When you are ready you are going to load the abseil device with both ropes
4 Test the abseil by moving up and leaning on the cowtail
5 Unclip and reclip the screwgate carabiner over the rope(s)
6 You can abseil with a Prusik or you can abseil without a Prusik in which case your partner can lock the device by pulling on the rope(s) from the bottom. When stacked we did first person on a Prusik second person not on a Prusik

Random notes
\\ Moving with coils on e.g. a 50 or 60m rope with a partner on a glacier (5 double arm spans?) with knots (any knot) equally spaced you are going to want the rope just brushing on the ground as you move
\\ Belaying from below if you can feel your partner pulling you are also pulling them off
\\ Belaying from above any slack = a worse fall. The person will accelerate
\\ After the walk in you will want to take some layers off. But don't.
\\ Try not to kick stones down a hill side or step on a small rowan tree
\\ Never let go of the dead end of the rope
\\ Typically at a stance after becoming safe via clove hitch you will want to see if anyone wants any water or a bite to eat
\\ When you reach the anchor you are going to attach yourself using a clove hitch
\\ One option would be to place a sling around a rock/boulder checking the rock doesn't move when you test it and belay your partner up using an Italian hitch (loop right over left loop right over left close it like a book)
\\ Here is another option scrambling depending on the situation: on the ground and hand over hand. (1 potato 2 potato when reversing)
\\ Here is another option around a rock changing the angle to vary the friction
\\ Here is another option a built belay
\\ Put your helmet inside you backpack. You can put your lunch inside. Fit the contours
\\ A way Mark carries his rope is between neck and backpack behind the shoulders with the waist strap going around the coils on both sides
\\ It's the way we move which keeps us safe
\\ Long extenders can be shortened (using the magic trick) but short extenders can't be lengthened. Think about that when you are choosing extenders
\\ You probably want to leave slings untied on your harness (halve it then twist twist twist and clip both ends) because it's quicker to tie the knots than untie
\\ Something I can't remember about not just dropping the coils / flaking
\\ Thin rope can be non dynamic
\\ Stuff is rated for the diameter of the rope
\\ Gloves make a difference when handling the rope
\\ If a knot is stuck you can take both ends and push it from there
\\ Ways to set up two pieces of protection: 1 an overhand knot; 2 an overhand knot with a big look; 3 some kind of lark's foot thing I can't remember
\\ A thread. That is potentially a good anchor. Sling + rock this is another possibilty
\\ You want the rope to flow nicely that's what the extenders are for
\\ Here is a technique for belaying your partner up: make an anchor = rock + sling then sit in a strong position and use a belay device and what you are doing is pulling the rope through like a V then using your lower (left?) hand to hold the dead rope half way between the belay device and your right hand, moving your right hand up to the belay device to free your left hand which moves onto the live rope then repeat the process
\\ Don't leave the rope loop too big. Do a nice stoppa by 1 loop round then 1 the other way (2?) and push the end through nice

Also
Crevasses tend to appear when the glacier is under tension for example the outside of a bend or going over a lip. On a dry glacier you are probably going to see the crevasses. On a wet glacier with deep snow that is potentially safer due to the depth of snow. On a wet glacier with a small amount of snow the snow might dip down into the crevasse. It's like you don't really know what is under your feet. There can be places where the crevasse is open with a snow bridge further up or can be walked around. In some cases it may not be possible to cross the bergschrund in which case go and do something else. You probably are going to see other peoples' tracks too. The snow deepens the higher you get.

The length of rope depends on the crevasse risk. With two people we used five double arms spans from the middle of the rope. We tied knots (any knot) 1:1 along the rope as evidence shows this can help if the person falls into a crevasse. What we did was tie into the rope (left finger tip to right elbow in my case ish) then coil the rope: the first strand goes tight over your right shoulder then you are using a flat hand with your hood up and coiling until you reach the knot which marks how much you want to coil. Do you coil past that or not? Then you are finished coiling: wear the coils over your left shoulder & pull a loop through with your right hand: see the two strands...capture in a full over hand knot with the loop being attached through your belay loop and rope loop using a screwgate carabiner. Then attach to the rope using a clove hitch

Sometimes you will be using a full rope length rope length. On stepped ground you are going to be short pitching.

This isn't finished.